In March, we made a trip to see family in Seattle and tacked on a few days in the San Juan Islands. I’ve not spent much time in the Pacific Northwest, and as a person who doesn’t like rain, I was admittedly a bit nervous to go in March. When I found out the San Juan Islands are in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, however, I started making plans. Plus, I’m kind of fascinated by island communities.
After several very rainy days in Seattle, we picked up our rental car and headed about 1.5 hours north to catch the ferry in Anacortes. We detoured through La Conner on our way, a cute little tourist town with the Museum of Northwest Art. With Mount Eerie on the playlist (musician Phil Elverum is based in Anacortes) and fog wafting through fields of yellow tulips, it felt like a moody dreamscape.
Anacortes itself is a charming town. We strolled main street and spent most of our time in Pelican Bay Books & Coffeehouse; it is one of the nicest used bookstores I’ve come upon, but the highlight was really how beautiful the pastries were at the coffeeshop. For lunch we went to Dockside Dogs, a little one-man stand by the water.
Waiting for the ferry in Anacortes
The Washington State Ferries are a well-oiled operation.
We stayed right outside of Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, at a beautiful cabin at Saltwater Farm. I think it’s primarily a wedding venue, but since it was the off-season, we had the place almost to ourselves, including the hot tub and sauna. I highly recommend these cabins — we woke up looking out into the forest, but others have views to the water.
Our cabin at Saltwater Farm
The best part about these islands is that they’re all very approachable, offering just the right amount of options without a sense of overwhelm. Our Airbnb was just 15 minutes away from Lime Kiln Point State Park. Another favorite hike was to Mt. Finlayson and Cattle Point Lighthouse. We took the ferry to Orcas Island one day and did a gorgeous hike at Moran State Park.
The hike to Cattle Point Lighthouse was a favorite. We went through a forest and emerged onto the coast. We walked, watching for orcas and seals. I felt like Anne of Green Gables on Prince Edward Island, windswept and like I had the world to myself.
Hiking in Moran State Park on Orcas Island
Lime Kiln Point State Park lighthouse
Cattle Point lighthouse
We only made it two islands: San Juans and Orcas Islands. With another day, we would have checked out Lopez. If I had a to-do over, we would have stayed on Orcas Island. It felt more our speed: Less touristed, more arty and contemporary, super laid back. Granted: We were there in March, the off-season, and so everything felt fairly laid back. My top recs:
Bakery San Juan (Friday Harbor, San Juan Island)
Ladybug Pizza (Eastsound, Orcas) | Pizza by the slice; we were here opening day!
Brown Bear Bakery (Eastsound, Orcas) | Closed while we were there
Vic’s Drive-In (Friday Harbor, San Juan Island) | Good post-hike burgers
Market opportunity: A good coffeeshop.
Coffeeshop next to the ferry terminal on San Juan Island
Waiting for the ferry with our haul from Bakery San Juan
Loved the Washington State Ferries! Took about 1.5 hours from Anacortes to Friday Harbor.
Sunset picnic at Lime Kiln Point State Park